Toni Caroline is a London-based art director and fashion stylist. Toni has worked with major fashion brands and publications, including Paul Smith and Vogue Italia.
Gosh, that's a tough one!
Maybe a Simone Rocha piece—her Fall 2018 RTW collection is stunning. There's a tartan look (look 16) which has a puff sleeve, belted waist and bows—it's a little 80s and reminds me of my childhood wardrobe.
I would love to shoot for Lacoste. I love how preppy and colourful their collections are—whilst still being functional and very wearable.
There are lots of stylish and interesting people that I would love to dress, but I'm going to have to go with Eliot Sumner. Not only is she super beautiful, but her style is androgynous and cool—I bet she'd look good in pretty much anything.
We asked Toni to share her 'bucket list concept'—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
I am so desperate to shoot a womenswear story in the desert. I want to create a retro feel with old motels and mid-century houses—ideally in Palm Springs, California.
The shoot would feel feminine and elegant, with a dash of sexy. I'd keep the set and styling really colourful.
Having grown up in South West England, I find the desert landscape so alien and inspiring. I've travelled to Palm Springs a few times now; I love the people I have met there and all the beautiful mid-century architecture—it is possibly my favourite place in the world.
Christina Stoever uses film to capture candid memories of youth and friendship. Earlier this year her work featured in British Vogue.
Access to disposable cameras as a child instilled my dream of being a photographer—I loved the surge of excitement that came from dropping film off and receiving images back. I was able to relive my pastimes in a tactile way, which quickly became my favourite way of expressing myself.
Preserving memories and encapsulating feelings have always been major driving forces in the images I capture.
The rapid transition from winter to spring to summer. I am Michigan-based at the moment so more than half of the year the landscape is grey, gloomy and lifeless—which really affects my mental health and creative output. But then April comes around, and signs of life begin to show—the green abundance shifts me back into a more content version of myself.
When I am really feeling creatively stumped, stepping back from my craft and pursuing other outlets (creative and otherwise) challenges me and restores my spirit. Alternating my hobbies allows me to think about my creative approach and outlooks in a fresh way.
Whilst the slow, grey season gets me down, it does force necessary reflection on my craft and self.
I want people to remember how my images made them feel.
We asked Christina to share her bucket list concept—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
We’re in the Italian countryside, or maybe the seaside... Okay, both! It's summer and we’ve rented a dingy convertible for the week. The light is hazy and dream-like and La Femme D’Argent by Air is playing in the background…
We're prancing around in beautiful clothing: Sandy Liang dresses, jackets by The Series NY, Zou Xou sandals and accessories from Edie Parker—'we' being all of my friends.
My favourite shoots are the ones where I’m with those closest to me—or the ones where the models are so down to earth that I leave the job with a new friend. I love to collaborate with the people in my circle who I know are building their own little creative empires, no matter what their craft may be. It inspires me so much watching someone’s seedling of an idea come to fruition!
This all derives from past experiences and moments I've lived already, mixed with a heavily romanticised take on some photoshoots I've dreamt up in my head.
Find more of Christina's work on her Instagram or her website.
Izzi Lewin is a fashion stylist with a distinctly gothic aesthetic. Izzi has collaborated with alternative ready-to-wear designer Sarah Garfield and underground music artist GIRLI.
Hedi Slimane—he shaped my appreciation for menswear. I’ve always been enamoured by his work. I love everything he does.
Many of the creators I admire already have an incredible existing vision. So, I think I’m yet to meet the person that I want to collaborate with in that way—the idea of meeting them really excites me though!
Honest, evocative and, in some ways, nostalgic. I want to create elevated characters that people can relate to. I hope to find a balance between being weird yet believable. For the most part, I wear very practical and timeless clothing—with something that feels a little bit unexpected.
We asked Izzi to share her 'bucket list concept'—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
I am forever learning and absorbing new things. My ideas change and develop a lot—it is a constantly evolving journey. But I do have this very particular world going in my head...
A complete dark void of nothingness.
I want to create something dark and enigmatic. Isolated yet romantic. Completely fearless. I’m very inspired by horror, 80s sub-cultures, the Victorian-Weimar Republic, and my friends so you could expect to see references to all of the above.
In terms of styling: Raf Simons A/W 1999 “Disorder – Incubation – Isolation”, Hedi Slimane Dior Homme era and Alexander McQueen’s ‘Jack the Ripper stalks his victims’ collection.
Gemma Wheatcroft is a hairstylist and MUA with a roster of A-list clients. Gemma uses makeup to accentuate natural beauty and empower the person behind it.
Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra in Cleopatra. Iconic, strong and fearless!
Indya Moore is goals! Stunningly beautiful, unique, empowering, brave, strong and confident in who she is.
AJ Odudu. She is so badass and beautiful. She’s a natural beauty but has fun with her hair and makeup. She is real and unfiltered and she always brings sunshine energy to the makeup chair.
I want my work to be remembered as a true representation of beauty and confidence.
We asked Gemma to describe her dream editorial shoot that she hopes to one day bring to life...
I would love to keep creating fresh, real, unfiltered images. I want women to feel themselves in makeup, not as though they are wearing a mask.
I like gorgeously enhanced skin tones, highlighting a woman’s uniqueness and encouraging the confidence to be ‘who you are'. I want my makeup to make a woman feel on her A-Game, to help uplift her natural inner qualities and enable her to shine. She should feel confident and empowered in her uniqueness.
I'd shoot in Havana, Cuba. I love the rich beautiful colours, the African, Spanish and Caribbean vibes and the uplifting music and dance.
My idea derived from seeing too many edited and filtered faces. Girls' and young women’s ideas of beauty are being warped by filters, so much so that they don’t recognise or like themselves without one. I want women to feel comfortable in their own skin and see the beauty in themselves again. Makeup should enhance, not hide. It’s cool to be creative but I always want to see the real you underneath.
Find more of Gemma's work on her Instagram.
DJ turned fashion photographer Michael Coker is better known as Kid Circus. His Instagram has a loyal following and acts as an archive of characterful portraits, but also as a platform to promote and facilitate creative collaborations.
For me, it was seeing my peers—the people whom I'd grown up doing photography with—starting to get paid to do something that we all had initially started doing for the love of it.
In no particular order: music, theatre, dance, a good traipse around art galleries, and getting out and experiencing nature.
I want my work to be remembered as a successful combination of human emotion with an editorial aesthetic.
I’m always trying to create a connection with whoever is in front of me, regardless of who they are. I have loved working with people who are not necessarily used to being in front of the camera just as much as any of the models I’ve worked with. Let’s face it, many of us just don’t like having our picture taken!
I have this idea that primarily revolves around the concept of giant furniture, the kind of scale that would really miniaturise the people in the resulting pictures. The idea was inspired by an image that the founder of JW Anderson posted on his Instagram account in December. It showed him sitting across a folding chair leaning into what looked like a giant balloon (it’s still his current profile picture at the time of writing).
It’s really hard to settle on whether I’d simply shoot it in a big commercial white cove studio, or go really all out and shoot each different piece in a different part of the world (Iceland, Bonneville Salt Flats and Monument Valley spring to mind). Maybe a bit of both! For the creation of the furniture itself, I'd want to work with Es Devlin. I love the work she’s done for the likes of Kanye, Beyoncé and Miley Cyrus. I also love the fact that she started in theatre design. I trained in performing arts long before I got into photography.
In terms of styling—I’m a sucker for suits. I’d be going with sharp tailoring paired with some rather huge hats: wide-brimmed, tall, almost cowboy style. Exaggerated, oversized bike helmet styles too—think Daft Punk’s helmets but a bit more super-sized. I would love to work with Ib Kamara. The stuff he’s done for Dazed is nothing short of incredible. He seems incredibly capable of surprising you with whatever he does.
When it comes to models, Grace Jones is top of the list—I’ve been obsessed with her since I was in my teens! Dennis Nyero is also a wonderful model. I've wanted to work with him since I first met him at an event I was DJing at six months before I took up photography. Jan de Villeneuve also caught my eye when I saw an editorial she was featured in for Hunger Magazine. I believe they would each bring the kind of individual character that would really elevate the concept of the shoot.
Find out more about Kid Circus on his website, or browse creative freelance opportunities via his Instagram.
Jordanna Cobella is a hairstylist with a salon in West London, Cobella Kensington. Jordanna has worked at London, Paris and Milan Fashion week for the last 7 years and is also the author of her own book, 'The Mindful Hairdresser'.
I love Jodie Comer. She fully endorses any character given to her with the utmost sincerity. She’s inside the mind of her characters and you can read it in her eyes. I'd love to get her camera ready.
1950s - 1970s women. So powerful.
Much like Banksy and Wes Anderson, I would love my work to be recognised aesthetically, but also open to the viewer's perceptions and interpretations.
We asked Jordanna to share her 'bucket list concept'—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
I love emotive shooting and I’m often influenced by political movements and current affairs. Each collection I shoot has an underlying meaning for the viewer to unpack and interpret—it's all about telling a relevant story for me. It keeps my work original and constantly evolving. I’ve done a collection on Alexander McQueen, a Brexit-inspired shoot and a piece that captured the raw beauty of lockdown.
My next shoot will be playful and eccentric, based on living in a dream world. I would shoot it in the LA desert and at the infamous Beverly Hills Hotel. I'm envisioning a very Wes Anderson-inspired aesthetic. The characters will be over the top with cliché roles and tongue-in-cheek humour.
Find more of Jordanna's up-dos on her Instagram or her website.
Gemma McLean is a style coach and wardrobe consultant; and fashion psychology is her secret weapon. Gemma's mission is to equip clients with a mood-boosting wardrobe that encapsulates what it means to be you.
Fashion has long been dismissed as a frivolous pursuit, and therefore the fashion industry's potential to contribute to the wellness industry has been largely dismissed. However, Gemma is fully aware of the power of dress—when approached mindfully, our wardrobes have the power to make us feel confident, positive and inspired. Gemma's approach to styling helps you do good, as well as feel good. If your style is a true reflection of self, it is considerably less vulnerable to manipulation by trends—your shopping habits should support you, not the fast fashion cycle. For Gemma, personal style manifests as a wardrobe that feels grounded and comfortable—comfort is always key.
We spoke to Gemma about the transformational power of dress, the benefits of sustainable fashion, and the best clothing markets to mooch...
I can’t remember the exact moment I discovered fashion psychology, but once I did I just wanted to learn more. I read as many books and articles as I could about the psychological processes affected by clothing and how what we’re wearing affects our everyday life. I conducted my own research by keeping a diary of my outfits and how I felt that day—it was such a fascinating process.
I wear a lot of beige and brown—which I feel is a very grounding colour palette. But I love a pop of blue, yellow or red when I’m needing more of a boost. Wearing colour can be both a reflection of and an influence on how we feel.
Getting dressed is absolutely an act of self-care. Self-care takes effort, as does getting dressed and presenting ourselves to the world. It is that act of doing something for ourselves and our well-being that shows we care for ourselves.
Right now, there are not many people talking about the psychology of fashion in mainstream media—but that is changing. Hopefully, more people will begin to utilise the power of dress positively in their lives. Through my content, I encourage people to look internally to figure out who they are and how they want to reflect that through their clothing. It is tough to switch from mindless to intentional shopping but it can become a habit over time—awareness is the first step. Getting dressed is something we do every day—we might as well benefit from it!
Clients can be reluctant to part with old pieces. My tip is to store items away for some time, say a month or three months, and then revisit them with this question: does this item reflect the best version of me? If the answer is no, then it’s time to let go. If you’re not sure yet, or just not ready to let go, that’s okay. Set it aside again for another few weeks or months and keep checking in with it.
A lot of my clients come to me because they’re tired of chasing trends—they're looking for something more stable in their wardrobes. My approach is to build a core 'style uniform'—key items which don’t tend to be trend-led, such as jeans, blazers, shirts and midi skirts. Once you’re happy with your staple pieces, you can add in a few trending items each season if you wish to keep on top of trends. Often, clients are so glad to have found something that works for them that they don’t actually want to clutter their wardrobes with new, trendy pieces.
Attitudes towards fast fashion are changing and most people want to make better decisions when it comes to shopping. However, being able to shop from ethical and sustainable brands is a privilege that not everyone can afford. In order for consumers to make better choices, we need better options made accessible to all. I feel there needs to be more legislation in place to ensure ethical standards are being met across the board.
Simply knowing how to look after your clothing makes pieces last a lot longer—which of course means they’ll need to be replaced less. Sometimes we just need to find new ways to style something for it to feel fresh in our wardrobes again—I find Pinterest to be a great source of inspiration.
I'm obsessed with Vinted for pre-loved finds—especially when I’m looking for something in particular. I also love going to Camden Market or rooting around charity shops—I love a good rummage.
For anyone looking to learn more about the psychology of dress I recommend: One of the first books I read—You Are What You Wear by Dr Jennifer Baumgartner—and one of the most recent books I read—Dress Your Best Life by Dawnn Karen. YouTube is a great place to get started too.
Is it time for a wardrobe refresh? Gemma provides a wealth of tips on her Youtube channel. Find more information about Gemma's services on her website.
Tiana Cvetkovic is a Toronto based fashion stylist. Tiana works with the philosophy that there is no such thing as being overdressed and her work is often marked by a refreshing pop of colour!
There are so many amazing designers, it is hard for me to choose just one! To name a few of my favourites: Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Ottolinger and Versace.
One of my favourite things about styling is collaborating with the people I am working with and putting creative visions together.
I want everyone to be in love with what they are wearing and feel their best. I love it when the people I style look and feel confident.
I would love to style Drake (I’m from Toronto, so this is a must) or Bella Hadid. They’re both creative geniuses and I think we would work really well together. I believe we could put together some super awesome looks.
Fashion is a form of art and expression. I want my work to evoke feelings and emotions. I want it to spark conversations and inspire people to ask questions.
Italy is one of my favourite places in the world and lemon trees are one of my favourite things. I would love to style a shoot that combines the two. I would bring this concept to life on a lemon farm on the Amalfi Coast.
When it comes to styling, I absolutely love working with a variety of colours, shapes, and textures. I enjoy playing around with colour blocking, layering, and mixing things that most would never think to put together. I think it would be super cool to do a shoot in this cute, charming location but have the clothing (and hair and makeup) be completely contrasting and funky! I’m a big believer in wearing whatever you want, wherever you want, and I think that would be a cool message to come out of this shoot. We should all feel free and confident in our fashion choices no matter the occasion!
Who would wear a crazy high fashion outfit to a lemon farm? Probably no one… but who cares!
This specific vision was inspired by the movie Call Me By Your Name. I love the romantic and charming vibe that this movie exudes. Usually, my ideas derive from what is immediately around me. I get a lot of inspiration from film and television, people watching and travelling. Life can be so extraordinary when we are able to see the beauty in ordinary things and transform those things into beautiful and unique creations.
See more of Tiana's work on her Instagram.
Nicola Harrowell is an accomplished hairstylist for whom curly hair is a passion. Nicola works as a freelance hairstylist and has worked on projects across film, editorial and runway.
I don’t usually dream of working with specific celebrities because you don't know if you’ll gel well with someone until you actually work with them.
I do love the people I have worked with already: Lashana Lynch, Nicôle Lecky, Iman Perez, Jessica Plummer, Indya Moore, Lauren Ridloff, Olive Grey, Toheeb Jimoh and Alexandra Shipp to name a few. I’d love to work with them all again in the future!
I also met icon Kate Moss (of course, she is fabulous), whilst I was assisting Anthony Turner. I would move heaven and earth to accommodate it if I was ever given the chance to work with her again.
But regardless of who I'm working with, I just like to have tons of hair to play with and manipulate. I'm also quite obsessed with red/ginger hair!
Oh! I'm a big fan of Sir David Attenborough too!
I genuinely love going to work! I brainstorm a lot before I get to a shoot in order to get my mind working and thinking outside the box.
What excites me is the energy on set, the hair itself and then whether or not I can go crazy with it!
I’d LOVE some more Vogue covers! But really, I want my work to make a mark in showcasing people as the best versions of themselves. I love not suppressing people's natural texture and colour—I like enhancements rather than coverups.
Hair is very political to me because of its historic relationship with racism.
I recommend that everyone reads 'Twisted: The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture by Emma Dabiri'. It's not just a book about hair—it’s extremely educational on what hair means to people and the injustices people continue to face due to the follicles they were born with.
We asked Nicola to share the creative vision on her bucket list, the editorial concept that she hopes to one ay bring to life...
One of my dream concepts is based on the Goddess, Lady Godiva.
I would love to have a person on a horse with a huge amount of hair (real and added extensions) cascading down their body. I’d love it to be shot on a cobbled street with people fully clothed in formal wear in the background.
I have always been obsessed. I made my logo based on me and Lady Godiva!
Who wants to give me the budget?
If you want to fund Nicola's Godiva tribute shoot, or simply find more of her work, check out her Instagram.
Rasa Balciunaite is a Lithuania-born, Birmingham-based fashion stylist. Her work can be found on the pages of pop-culture magazines like Flanelle and PhotoVogue.
It's impossible to pick just one item! Definitely something from Gianni Versace's 90s collections, such as the Bondage dress or the Sea Shell dress. Absolutely iconic!
I do also love Mugler and the current direction they're taking. I would happily style the majority of their current pieces, as well as the unforgettable work of Thierry Mugler in the 90s.
I would love to collaborate with Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Pansczczyk, the designers behind AREA. Their work is incredibly inspiring and represents my aesthetic. I love how they combine glam and street style with a twist of playfulness and pop.
Another brand would be Gucci, of course. I love how Alessandro Michelle combines unexpected pieces together. He creates a sort of a messy, yet cohesive look. It's an art.
If I had a chance, Rihanna. To be honest, I think I would learn more from her! She's my fashion icon and I think together we would create some true statement looks for her. I love how she's taking risks and mixing styles, yet still keeping her own flair. I think she'd be a dream to work with!
I want to be remembered as an image architect, like Law Roach. I'd like to be recognised as a trendsetter with a true passion. I pride myself on elevating people's styles and defining their aesthetics. I hope that is remembered.
We asked Rasa to share her 'bucket list concept'—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
I'm planning a concept shot by the beach—it's a location that I haven't shot at before but would absolutely love to. There's just something wonderful about being by the sea, especially when the weather is right and the golden hour is present. I can't give out too many details on this idea, so just a teaser...seductive, mysterious, glamorous, one-with-nature, free.
As for the rest, well, you'll have to wait and see!
Claire Cook is a multi-disciplinary creative working across graphic design, photography, styling and creative direction. Claire runs her own styling & creative management studio, fittingly named Claire Cook Studio.
Phoebe Philo. I love her simplicity of style and her ability to distil complex design problems into simple, elegant and almost invisible solutions. Any of her old Celine pieces would be a dream to style.
Zoe Kravitz and Alexa Chung—if only to have access to their insane personal closets! Also, Johnny Depp because his ring collection is iconic. I've recently watched 'Why didn't they ask Evans' and so I have to say Lucy Boynton too. I'm hooked on her personality and general charm.
I'd love to be known for a unique, timeless (in the sense that it endures) aesthetic that feels human and genuine. I am inspired by so many different mediums (poetry, ceramics, books, art, online platforms like blogs, Pinterest and Instagram, food & drinks, etc.)
I hope that variety comes across in my work and feels holistic in that inspires your mind, body and soul.
We asked Claire to share her 'bucket list concept'—the creative vision that she hopes to one day bring to life...
Walking through the Louvre is so invigorating and inspiring yet, at the same time, it feels so calm. It is the universal symbol of elegance and art history, located in the most romantic city in the world (IMHO).
I'd love to do a shoot recreating classic oil paintings with modern clothes/design with a real warm, nuanced feel to each shot. Think: Art-lexa Chung.
Find more of Claire's work on her Instagram or check out her website.
When you think of an iconic logo, what comes to mind? The striking yellow of the ubiquitous golden arches? The almost audible swoosh of the Nike tick? Or maybe the crisp curve of a half-bitten apple?
We live in an age of logo-mania: mascots, monograms and mottos. But do we know the story behind any of these infamous designs? We've retraced the history of famous logos to find out how exactly they came to be...
Legendary designer Peter Moore could have multiple entries on this list, but we settled upon his first claim to fame. True sneakerheads know that prior to the 'Jumpman' logo, which is synonymous with Air Jordan's today (also oft-credited to Peter Moore), there was 'Wings'.
As legend has it, Peter Moore watched a child be gifted a captain wings badge by a flight attendant as he boarded a flight. He then asked for his own badge, scribbled out the wings on the back of a napkin, added a basketball and voila!
The logo was more than just an image. It fed into the air-borne narrative that Nike masterfully cultivated: with a pair of Air Jordan's you can 'take flight' just like Michael.
The Ferrari shield was born from a chance collision between Enzo Ferrari and fellow speed-demon Francesco Baracca—or rather, his parents.
Francesco Baracca was a Major and pilot who tragically lost his life in the First World War. On the bodywork of his fighter, Baracca had painted a black prancing horse with its tail downwards—a symbol of courage. Following one of his victories, Ferrari met Mr and Mrs Baracca who told him of their late son's personal emblem. The pair suggested that if Ferrari were to paint his vehicle with the same, it would bring him good luck. Enzo Ferrari took their advice. The infamous Ferrari shield made its debut mounted on the Ferrari 125 S in 1947, now with an upward turned tail and emblazoned on top of a bright yellow background in honour of Modena, Ferrari's birth town.
Today the prancing horse is a symbol of excellence in engineering, luxury and class—so long as it's not going too fast for you to see!
The tale of the Paul Smith stripe begins, as these stories so often do, with a happy accident. In the 1970s, working out of his first shop in Nottingham, Paul Smith began experimenting with different coloured threads using hand-held windings. The resulting colourful pattern is what we know today as Paul Smith's signature stripe.
Today the stripe is often reserved as a certification for premium fabrics. However, it is also an embodiment of playful innovation used to revive classic pieces with a cheeky bit of character. The classic 40-coloured stripe has been adapted into different tonal palettes and forms over the years, perhaps most notably emblazoned on a Zebra! The classic motif has stood the test of time and acts as an instant identification of Paul Smith tailoring.
22nd April 1970 marked the first Earth Day in the US. In celebration, students from around the country were encouraged to enter a competition to produce a symbol for future use on products made from recycled paper. Gary Anderson, a 23-year-old urban design student, submitted to the competition. His entry, which apparently took no longer than a day or two to design, comprised 3 arrows folded to command a triangular shape that loops continuously. Needless to say, he won!
Anderson received around $2000 for his efforts and his design was gifted to the public domain. Anderson went on to make great contributions to urban design and planning. The symbol is likened in recognisability to that of giants like McDonald's and Coca Cola, but its impact runs far deeper. The simplistic design played a big role in bringing the concept of recycling into the public eye and continues to educate people on how best to responsibly dispose of their waste.
In 1977, graphic designer Milton Glaser was tasked with a rather unusual commission: to brand a city. New York City was suffering from an economic lull and it was decided an effort to draw in tourism was needed. The story goes that Glaser sketched the design on an envelope in the back of a taxi.
Ironically, Glaser thought his design would be a fleeting campaign, "gone in a few months". How wrong he was.. These days you can't walk past a tourist shop without seeing an adaptation of the iconic logo. Though its prevalence baffles Glaser to this day, he describes its enduring place in pop culture as "a great pleasure". Disappointingly, Glaser never directly profited from its unanticipated success. However, his work was acknowledged with multiple awards. Notably, Glaser was the first graphic designer to ever receive the National Medal of the Arts award.
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